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Kirkland Signature  2008  Chardonnay Sonoma County

83 A- / $7.99
    The nose of this Costco brand wine is promising and has some energy, with lime, pear, peach, and a nice dose of spiciness. In the mouth and finish, though, it feels diluted, and relatively flat and uninteresting. The finish also fades quickly. A nice quaffer for the price, but definitely two levels below the quality of Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve, for example. - HK : 2010-07-28

Domaine des Bosquets  1999  Gigondas

86 B+ / $14.00
    We've been drinking this wine over the past eight years or so, and at age 11 it seems just slightly beyond its peak. Originally a big, alcoholic, extremely chewy, closed, rustic wine, the rough edges disappeared about age 7 - 8, leaving the wine delicious, balanced, and full-bodied. Currently, the nose leans toward leather, cedar, and dark licorice when first opened. With a bit of airing, dark currant and funky roasted fig flavors appear. The tannin has essentially disappeared, making the wine somewhat flabby. I'd opt to drink this one up in the next year or two. - HK : 2010-07-27

Bella  2007  Zinfandel Russian River

82 F / $30.00
    Really disappointing in light of the vintage and this normally excellent winery. Dull and underendowed Zinfandel that is bettered by many if not most Zins in this price range. Claret-like structure with straightforward, unassertive, slightly herbal berry and currant fruit. Not much zip in the aromas, flavors or finish. Certainly OK wine, just not at this price level. Utterly outclassed by an outstanding Hartford Russian River Zin tasted the day before. - HK : 2010-07-25

Hartford  2007  Zinfandel Russian River

90 B- / $35.00
    This may be Hartford's best non-single-vineyard Zin ever. Rich and mouth-filling, with spicy, jammy red and black berry fruits caressing the nose and taste buds, excellent grip and power in the mouth, yet with all its components in balance - nothing raisiny or overblown about it. Shares with the best Russian River Zinfandels a sense of brightness and energy in the fruitiness as opposed to mere weighiness. Drinking beautifully right now. - HK : 2010-07-24

Chateau Pipeau  2003  2003

87 A- / $14.00
    A straight-ahead, plump, flavorful Bordeaux that's showing well at age 7. In our recent tasting, this deep purple wine evolved considerably over time. When first opened it was hard to identify as a Bordeaux - it had lots of chocolate and earthy tones and a chunky texture on top of funky Carignan-like fruit. But over time it became much more classic, as cassis and cherry notes took over. The earthiness was still there, however, along with a distinct smoking oak component. Satisfying Bordeaux that, even in current vintages, is reasonably priced. - HK : 2010-07-20

Dutton-Goldfield  2007  Pinot Noir McDougall Vineyard

93 B+ / $40.60
    I think this is the equal of the outstanding 2005 McDougall. It shares with that wine the beautifully forward, complex aromatics of deep cherry, plum, charcoal, Asian spice, roses, and white flowers. As in 2005, it seems more floral than the other Dutton-Goldfield single-vineyard Pinots. It is still youthful (July 2010 tasting) with some tannin to resolve, but it's already showing great elegance and length. As it was with the 2005's, it's a tough pick at this point among the 2007 Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noirs. [Purchased during a great grand-opening sale at the new D-G tasting room at Graton Road and Gravenstein Highway in Sebastopol.] - HK : 2010-07-17

Old World Winery  2005  Zinfandel Laughlin Vineyard

90 B+ / $25.00
    The 2010 release of the 2005 Laughlin Zinfandel comes at a time when a lot of other '05 Zins have already lost their zip. This one is fresh as a daisy, though it's potency is anything but daisy-like. While dry and possessing nearly a percent more alcohol than the '04, the '05 Laughlin has an aromatic profile quite reminiscent of the port-like '04, which was made in a sweet, late-harvest style. The '05 displays concentrated black cherry, black raspberry, prune, and super-ripe fig fruit on top of a deep, dark core of earthy chocolate, espresso, and subtle oaky spiciness. There is a bit of heat from the alcohol, but the texture is mouth-filling and the finish long and rich. A muscular, charmingly idiosyncratic Zin from a great vineyard. - HK : 2010-07-13

Seghesio  2006  Zinfandel Cortina

90 B- / $36.00
    The Seghesio Cortina Zins have always struck me as fairly tough-textured early in life, but the '06 has softened nicely at age 4. Beautifully balanced mix of deep red and black fruit (especially blackberry and blueberry), acid, oak, spice. Full-bodied, mouth-filling, and long, yet totally in control and focused. As with virtually all the Seghesio Zinfandels, this one is muscular and completely satisfying on the testosterone front, but also restrained enough to be good with food or cheese without dominating. - HK : 2010-07-11

Dutton-Goldfield  2007  Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch, Freestone Hill Vineyard

93 B+ / $40.60
    The 2007 Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot is a step up from the excellent 2006, and nearly the equal of the sensational 2005. Very forward and youthful nose at this point, caressing the nasal passages with a complex mix of black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, rose hips, and spice. Beautifully balanced despite its richness, which is a Dutton-Goldfield trademark. Long, lovely finish. [Purchased during a remarkably generous sale at the winery.] - HK : 2010-07-10

Banshee Wines  2008  Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands

88 B+ / $20.00
    One of the better Pinot Noir bargains on the market. It's not clear who Banchee gets their wine from (I gather they're a negociant of sorts), but this Pinot reminds me of a good Siduri Pinot Noir - very rich in the mouth and overflowing with velvety cherry- and plum-laced Pinot fruit. Not especially complex, and definitely not of a Burgundian lean-and-mean style, but a pleasure to drink with red meat or pasta. - HK : 2010-07-09

Siduri Wines  2008  Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills

88 B+ / $20.00
    Purchased on sale during the Barrel Tasting weekend, this wine shows the usual remarkable Siduri fruit density, with bing cherry and plum fruit on top of a strong chocolate/charcoal core. Silky in texture, very ripe feeling in the mouth and finish. Plenty of muscle to deal with grilled beef off the barbecue. - HK : 2010-07-09

Sanford Winery  2007  Flor de Campo

91 C+ / $48.00
    This magnificent white is a Rhone-ranger blend of Roussanne and Viognier, and it shows both off beautifully. Lovely nose of honeysuckle, peaches, apricots, and a myriad of spices. Despite the gracefulness of the aromas, the fruit flavors tweaking the taste buds are remarkably rich and forceful. Yet the wine does not feel heavy or overdone in any way. Harmonious from start to finish. - HK : 2010-07-09

Quivira  2009  Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard

87 B+ / $17.00
    Quivira makes a flavorful, fresh, well-priced Sauvignon Blanc nearly every year. The 2009 has a nice combination of ripeness, freshness, and energy. Piquant herbal nose, crisp yet full of citrus and subtle pear-like flavors. Refreshing feel, untiring to drink. - HK : 2010-07-08

Honig  2004  Cabernet Sauvignon

85 C+ / $20.00
    Chunky, full-bodied Cabernet showing candied cherry and red licorice notes along with a touch of chocolate. Straightforward, satisfying "everyday" Cabernet. - HK : 2010-07-02

Bella  2006  Zinfandel Big River Ranch

87 C- / $38.00
    Big River Ranch is a beautiful vineyard tucked into the sharp loop of the Russian River just north of Fitch Mountain in Healdsburg, in the southernmost reaches of Alexander Valley. This is a good Zinfandel, but one I remember enjoying more a year or two ago when it displayed more fruit. Currently, the nose and flavors are more earthy/gamey/weedy and Claret-like. Notes of tobacco, cooked figs, prunes, and dark cherries are apparent along with some herbal/mint nuances. Muscular in the mouth and still relatively tannic. Solid, full-bodied Zinfandel that just didn't seem very charming to me in this tasting. - HK : 2010-06-29

Windsor Sonoma  2007  Chardonnay

88 A- / $15.99
    Fairly-priced, flavorful and fruit-filled Chardonnay. Good balance, lots of spice, good acid balance to keep it fresh. Initial impression almost like apple cider, with lots of tang to the pear, apple, and tropical fruits. Got more interesting the longer it was open. - HK : 2010-06-28

Chateau Bel Air  2005  2005

85 A / $7.99
    Extremely respectable considering the price. Characteristic and surprisingly forward Bordeaux nose - dark currants, black coffee, chocolate, and wood/earth notes. Still fairly tannic in the mouth, and a touch thin in texture compared to what was promised in the aromas. But overall this is a very good bargain - a straight-ahead, nicely flavored and structured wine at 1/4 the price of many a comparable Bordeaux or California Cab. - HK : 2010-06-24

Stonestreet  2006  Chardonnay "Broken Road"

90 C+ / $40.00
    This excellent Chardonnay comes from an 1800 foot vineyard in the mountains overlooking Alexander Valley. Satisfying, tangy, crisp, and balanced wine displaying lots of sweet citrus and subtle tropical fruits enhanced by cinnamon-like spiciness and leesy undertones. Fresh and untiring to the palate, lovely balance of fruit, acid, and oak. Unfortunately the price for this wine has been jacked up to beyond affordability in the past few years - the 2007 ($55) costs 30%+ more than I paid for this 2006 ($40). Isn't there a recession going on? - HK : 2010-06-22

Greenwood Ridge  2006  Merlot Mendocino Ridge

89 B / $24.00
    Balanced, fruit-forward, warm-hearted Merlot. Fairly intense cherry and plum fruit with added complexity from subtle herb/mint notes and a violet floral edge; some chocolate in the background too. Ripe, harmonious feel, with nothing overblown. Good food wine. - HK : 2010-06-21

Siduri Wines  2008  Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands

88 B+ / $20.00
    One of the many excellent Siduri appellation wines, this Pinot was a steal when purchased at the winery during the Barrel Tasting Weekend. Good black cherry/raspberry fruit density accompanied by notes of dried flowerss, smoke, and a Dr. Pepper-like spiciness. Nicely balanced and full, though a year or so additional age will probably round out the slight austeriy found in the texture.. - HK : 2010-06-16

Woodenhead  2007  Zinfandel Braccialini Vineyard

88 C / $34.00
    Delicious, silky-smooth, fruit-forward Zinfandel from a 25-year-old vineyard northwest of Cloverdale, in the northernmost reaches of Alexander Valley. Flavors come across like a liqueur of cherries, plums, and pomegranate - almost Pinot Noir-like except the fruit is more intense. Exceptionally soft and easy to drink, and the "moderate" alcohol level makes it a good food wine. Its extreme softness detracts a bit from its grip, but it's a tasty Zin to drink right now. No need to age this beauty. - HK : 2010-06-16

Jordan  2005  Cabernet Sauvignon

88 C- / $40.00
    This wine has a lot of classic California character - ripe dark currant and cherry fruit, a hefty dose of sweet oak, and some nice mint/floral and cola notes. Balanced and exceedingly smooth in the mouth and finish, so I would not opt to put this one down much longer. Very soft and polite - almost unstructured - which detracts from the grip and overall feel. But a tasty and easy to drink Cabernet that will not overpower your meal. - HK : 2010-06-12

C. Donatiello Winery  2008  Chardonnay Maddie's Vineyard

90 B- / $34.00
    Probably my favorite C. Donatiello wine to date, the '08 Maddie's Vineyard Chardonnay is an exceptionally flavorful and balanced white. Ripe and ringing with freshness, showing citrus and pear fruit, a lovely floral edge, and plenty of spicy but well-calibrated oak. Nice feel of purity and harmony from start to finish. - HK : 2010-06-12

Taft Street  2007  Chardonnay Russian River "Garagiste"

83 C / $16.50
    This wine is a barrel-select version of the regular Russian River release, purchased during a nice sale at Taft Street. The wine unfortunately seems dominated by its acid and oak components, with some rather insipid citrus fruit in the background. More mineral-laden and leesy than the regular bottling. Overall I much prefer the regular bottling which, while much softer, has more fruit and charm. Don't serve this one too cold. - HK : 2010-06-10

Bodega Catena Zapata  2009  Alamos Malbec

84 A- / $9.99
    This entry level Malbec from Alamos is fairly priced, though to my taste it doesn't measure up in price/quality ratio to the excellent Alamos Chardonnays. Dark purple in color, it is still obviously youthful and therefore a little harsh, but there is a ripe-feeling and balanced texture. Perhaps the wine is closed at this point, but in the mouth the raspberry/blackberry fruit is barely detectable. The wine may come alive in time, but for now it's relatively uninteresting. - HK : 2010-06-09

Georges Meurgey  2007  Vouvray

86 A / $8.99
    Tucked away on the shelves at Safeway and priced at about half that of a typical Vouvray, this wine is not one that for which I had high expectations. But it was a most pleasant surprise. Fresh and flavorful, with a texture not unlike that of a nice, very slightly off-dry German Riesling. Subtle aromas and flavors of citrus blossoms, honey, and bright white fruit that struck me as a cross between peach and orange; refreshingly lively feel. A nice wine to sip on its own, and it works well with spicy food. - HK : 2010-06-07

Bella  2006  Zinfandel "Two Patch"

90 B- / $36.00
    A delicious Zin, made from two old Alexander Valley Vineyards (Big River Ranch and Todd Brothers Ranch), that has softened and broadened nicely in the last year or two. Deep, complex nose shows dark berry and almost port-like plum/prune fruit, along with floral notes of rose hips and violet, a hint of sorghum, and lots of toasty oak. Smooth and soft at this point, but with plenty of structure to keep it fresh. - HK : 2010-06-03

Freestone Vineyards  2007  Pinot Noir "Fogdog"

89 C+ / $36.00
    An impressive blend from three of Freestone's excellent cool-climate estate vineyards: Pasquale, Quarter Moon, Ferguson. Penetrating Pinot nose with dark cherry, pomegranate, charcoal, spice. Rich yet crisp and clean in the mouth, with an attractive fruity tartness. Treatment included aging in 60% new oak, but there are no intrusive oaky aromas or flavors. Appealingly "low" alcohol level and good balance. - HK : 2010-05-01