Albert Mann
1997 Tokay Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes

Appellation: Alsace, France

Large-scaled, high-alcohol, old-vines Alsatian Tokay Pinot Gris. The big nose is dominated by honey and butter, with nice touches of apricot and nutmeg. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied, oily, and flavorful (again, honey with spiced apricots and peaches, and a strong mineral component in the finish), but doesn't have the balancing acid to avoid a slight clumsiness, particularly as it warms up. This is one wine that holds up well to being chilled. If it were a little more balanced, it would be rated a few points higher. In any case, a wine with a personality that's fun to sip.