2009 Rochioli Chardonnay South River Vineyard
Russian River, Sonoma, California
WB Rating: 87

Alcohol by volume: 14.2%
Price at time of purchase: $60.00 (from winery)
Type: Chardonnay
Principal varietal(s): Chardonnay

I seem to have a bipolar relationship with Rochioli wines from this vineyard. While I typically love them, this is the second instance, along with the 2007, that seems far afield from the usual Rochioli style. Like the 2007, the 2009 is oily textured, extremely leesy, somewhat angular in the finish, not at all fruit driven. RIch nuttiness and yeasty edges, with a finish like burnt caramel (I don't mean that negatively - it's just the edge this wine possesses). Some pear and orange fruit submerged in the midst of all the non-fruit nuances. Certainly not a bad wine - quite the contrary - but to my taste, has none of the remarkable elegance and grace and mineral precision that I've found in every other Rochioli single vineyard Chardonnay. I've seen reviews that rave about this wine, but either this and the '07 bottles I tried were slightly off, or it's just not my style. - HK 2013-12-19


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